Understanding Winnebago Solis: A Practical Guide

The Winnebago Solis is a Class B+ camper van built on the Ram ProMaster chassis — shorter than a full Class C but tall enough to stand in, with a real wet bath and a 12V compressor fridge. It comes in two main floor plans: the fixed-roof 59P and the pop-top 59PX. Both sleep up to four people in a package short enough to fit in a standard parking space, but the trade-offs between the two plans are significant enough that one version works better for full-time boondockers and the other better for fair-weather weekenders.

What the Winnebago Solis actually is

The Solis sits between a traditional camper van and a small Class C. The ProMaster chassis means front-wheel drive, a low step-in height, and a boxy body that maximizes interior space. Overall length is around 19.5 feet for the 59P and 21 feet for the 59PX. That’s short enough to park in a single spot but tall enough to stand upright inside.

Key specs for the most common Solis 59P model:

• Length: 19 feet 5 inches
• Width: 80 inches (no slide-out)
• Height: 9 feet 6 inches (10 feet 2 inches with air conditioner)
• GVWR: 8,550 or 9,350 lbs depending on year
• Fresh water: 12 gallons
• Grey water: 13 gallons
• Black water: cassette toilet with removable tank

The cassette toilet is a big difference from typical RV holding tanks — there’s no black tank under the rig. You pull out the cassette (about 5 gallons) and dump it at a standard toilet or dump station. That trade-off saves space but means you handle waste more often. For a couple on a week-long trip, expect to dump every two to three days. For solo use, you might get five or six days between dumps.

How the floor plans differ

Solis 59P — the no-pop-top original

The 59P has a fixed fiberglass roof with an overcab bunk above the driver’s cab. The rear features a wet bath (toilet, shower, sink all in one fiberglass module) and a galley with a two-burner propane cooktop and a single sink. Sleeping is a drop-down bed over the rear seating area plus the cab bunk. There’s no permanent bed — you convert the seating area every night.

Solis 59PX — the pop-top version

The 59PX replaces the fixed bunk with a pop-up roof that adds standing headroom and an upper sleeping area (a mesh platform with mattress). This plan drops the overcab bunk and uses the floor space differently. The wet bath is still there, and the rear seating area still converts to a bed. The pop-top gives you loft ventilation and a more open feel when parked, but it adds setup time and reduces insulation in cold weather.

Solis 59P vs 59PX decision point

Choose the 59P if you want a simpler setup, better cold-weather performance (no canvas pop-top), or you need the fixed overhead bunk for kids. The fixed roof also holds solar panels more securely. The 59P handles overnight temps below freezing better because there’s no canvas panel to lose heat through.

Choose the 59PX if you want stand-up headroom through the whole aisle and you camp primarily in mild to warm weather. The pop-top makes the van feel larger than it is, and the upper loft can sleep an adult or two kids. But be aware that the canvas fabric whistles in high wind and will condense moisture in cool weather. Plan to wipe down the interior fabric each morning if you camp in humid conditions.

Real-world living in a Solis

The kitchen works, but has limits

The galley is small — two burners, a single sink, and a 2.5 cubic foot compressor refrigerator/freezer. The fridge runs on 12V DC, so it’s fine off-grid as long as your house batteries hold up. There’s no propane oven. You’ll rely on portable induction cooktops or outdoor cooking for anything beyond simple one-pan meals.

One practical detail: the single sink is shallow, about 6 inches deep. Washing a large pot requires angling it sideways. The cooktop covers the sink when stowed, so you can’t run water while cooking. Plan your workflow — prep first, then cook, then clean.

Bathroom — usable but tight

The wet bath is around 28×26 inches. You shower next to the toilet with a hand-held sprayer, and everything gets wet. It works, but it’s not spacious. A shower mat helps keep the floor from getting slippery. The cassette toilet has a 5-gallon removable tank. If you’re camping with full hookups, you can leave the cassette in place and use a standard sewer hose connection. Off-grid, you’ll need to carry the cassette to a dump station or vault toilet — it weighs about 40 pounds when full.

The drop-down bed real talk

The rear drop-down bed (called the Power Bed) lowers to about 48 inches wide and 74 inches long. That’s a narrow double. Two adults can sleep there, but it’s tighter than a standard residential mattress. The overhead cab bunk on the 59P is about the same size and weight capacity is typically 250 lbs per bunk. Check your year’s manual for exact ratings.

A common owner complaint: the drop-down bed blocks access to the rear storage area when lowered. If you need to grab something at night, you either climb over the bed or raise it again. Plan your packing so nighttime essentials (water, snacks, phone chargers) stay in the cab area.

Keeping the furnace working when you need it most

The Solis uses a propane furnace for heat. It’s a simple system but has a few common failure points you can check yourself before calling for help. This flow works for most RV propane furnaces, including the Suburban or Atwood unit in the Solis.

Check this first: Does the furnace have power?

• Battery voltage: The furnace fan needs 12V DC. Check your house battery voltage — if it’s below 12.4V, the fan may not spin fast enough to trigger the sail switch. Charge or switch to shore power before troubleshooting further.
• Fuse: Locate the furnace fuse in your 12V fuse panel (usually labeled). If it’s blown, replace it and see if the furnace runs again.
• Propane supply: Make sure the propane tank is open and has fuel. You can check by lighting one of the stove burners — if the flame is weak or yellow, the tank may be low or the regulator may have a problem.

Branch point: If the battery reads above 12.4V and the stove lights with a strong blue flame, move to the airflow check. If the battery is low (below 12.2V), stop troubleshooting the furnace and charge the battery first — the furnace won’t light with low voltage regardless of anything else you do.

Check this next: Is air moving?

• Listen for the fan: When you set the thermostat to Heat and turn up the temperature, you should hear a fan start within a few seconds. If you hear nothing, the fan motor may be seized or the circuit board may not be sending power.
• Sail switch: This small switch detects airflow from the fan. If it’s stuck, broken, or blocked by debris, the furnace won’t try to light. You can remove the furnace cover and visually inspect the sail arm — it should move freely when you gently push it.

Step-by-step troubleshooting order

1. Turn off the furnace and wait 5 minutes. This allows the safety gas valve to reset.

2. Verify propane supply — tank open, regulator not frozen (a frozen regulator looks frosted or has ice on it), stove lights normally.

3. Check the thermostat — set to Heat, temperature set at least 5 degrees above current room temp.

4. Listen for the igniter — after the fan runs for a few seconds, you should hear a clicking sound (spark igniter) or see a glow (glow plug). If you hear clicking but no flame, the gas isn’t reaching the burner or the circuit board isn’t opening the gas valve.

5. Inspect the exterior vent — make sure the furnace exhaust vent on the outside of the van isn’t blocked by debris, mud, or snow. A blocked vent will cause the furnace to shut off immediately. Also check for mud dauber nests — they’re common in furnace vents on rigs parked outside.

When to stop and call a certified RV technician

• You smell propane (strong odor). Open a window, leave the rig, and call a service center from outside. Do not touch any electrical switches.
• The circuit board looks burned or damaged (dark spots, melted components, cracks).
• You’ve checked power, propane, and fuses, and the furnace still won’t light. Gas valve replacement and circuit board repair require professional tools and certification — do not attempt them yourself unless you hold a gas certification.
• The fan runs but the furnace clicks repeatedly without lighting. This usually points to a failed igniter or a clogged burner tube, both of which need a technician.

Verification step: How to confirm the fix worked

Set the thermostat to 70°F when the coach interior is at 60°F or below. The furnace should fire up, run for 5-10 minutes to bring the temperature up, then cycle off. Let it complete at least two full on/off cycles. If it lights and stays lit through both cycles, the repair is successful. If it lights but then shuts off after 30 seconds, you likely have a dirty flame sensor or a blocked burner — the furnace detected no flame after the gas valve opened.

Failure mode: Short cycling (furnace turns on and off rapidly)

Symptom: Furnace runs for 30-60 seconds, shuts off, then tries again after a short pause. This pattern repeats.

Likely cause: The sail switch is marginal — it’s closing but barely, and the fan oscillation trips it open. This is common if the fan motor bearings are getting stiff or if the sail arm is bent slightly.

Safer next move: Check that the sail switch arm moves freely and isn’t hitting any debris. You can gently bend the sail arm back to its original position if it looks bent, but do not replace the sail switch unless you verify the fan is actually spinning at full speed. A slowed fan motor will cause the same symptom, and replacing the sail switch won’t fix it. If the fan sounds weak or slow compared to normal, the motor is the real problem — that needs a technician.

Practical electrical considerations

Battery type decision criterion

The stock Solis comes with a single Group 31 12V AGM battery (typically around 100Ah of usable capacity, but only 50Ah if you want to keep the battery healthy — deep-cycle AGMs shouldn’t be discharged below 50%). That’s enough for a weekend of furnace use, fridge, lights, and phone charging. But this single battery becomes the limiting factor as soon as you add any of these three loads: running the furnace all night in sub-freezing weather, using a microwave through the inverter, or camping off-grid for more than two days.

Here’s the decision rule: If you plan to boondock more than two nights at a time, or if you camp in weather below 40°F where the furnace runs half the night, budget for a battery upgrade before you buy or shortly after. The stock AGM battery won’t cut it for extended off-grid use.

Two upgrade paths:

• Add a second AGM battery — This doubles your usable capacity to about 100Ah. Simple wiring, no system changes. It’s the cheapest upgrade and works fine if you mostly have shore power but want a safety margin.
• Switch to lithium (LiFePO4) — A 200Ah lithium bank gives you 160Ah of usable capacity (lithium allows 80% discharge without damage). That’s over three times the usable power of the stock battery. Lithium also charges faster, holds voltage higher under load (important for the furnace fan), and lasts 3-5 times longer in cycle life. The trade-off is cost — expect $800-$1,500 for a quality 200Ah lithium system plus a battery monitor and possibly a new charger.

Real-world comparison: With the stock AGM battery and the furnace running intermittently overnight at 35°F, you’ll wake up to a battery reading around 12.0V — basically drained. With a 200Ah lithium bank, you can run the furnace all night, use lights, watch a movie on the inverter, and still have 60% charge in the morning.

Solar and charging

The Solis typically comes with a 100W solar panel and a PWM charge controller. That’s enough to maintain battery charge but not enough to recharge a deeply depleted battery in one day — a 100W panel in full sun will put back about 30Ah over a full day, which barely covers furnace and fridge use overnight.

Upgrade recommendation: If you plan to boondock regularly, add at least 200W of solar (300W is better) and switch to an MPPT charge controller. The MPPT controller can harvest 20-30% more power from the same panel in cloudy conditions, which is critical for winter camping.

Decision checklist: Is the Winnebago Solis right for you?

Use this quick fit/no-fit check before you buy:

• Can you live with a cassette toilet? If the idea of carrying a 5-gallon waste tank to a dump station every 2-3 days bothers you, the Solis is not the right van.
• Do you need a permanent bed? If you don’t want to convert the seating area nightly, look at floor plans with a fixed rear bed (like the Solis 59K or the Revel).
• Are you camping in freezing weather? If yes, choose the 59P (fixed roof) and plan on a battery upgrade — the pop-top 59PX will lose too much heat through the canvas.
• Is 19.5-21 feet short enough for your parking situation? Measure your parking space before buying. The Solis fits in a standard parking space but is tall — check overhead clearance at your garage or carport.
• Can you handle the galley limitations? If you cook large meals or need an oven, the Solis kitchen will frustrate you. Plan on carrying a portable induction burner or a camp stove.

Keeping the fridge running off-grid

The Solis uses a 12V compressor fridge (typically a Vitrifrigo or Norcold). Unlike old-school absorption fridges, the compressor fridge doesn’t need to be level and cools quickly — usually reaches temperature within an hour of turning on. But it draws 3-5 amps per hour while running, which adds up. Over 24 hours, the fridge alone pulls roughly 40-50Ah from your battery.

Battery impact: If you have the stock 100Ah AGM battery, the fridge uses nearly all of your usable capacity on its own. Add furnace, lights, and water pump, and you’re over budget by bedtime. This is the single biggest reason Solis owners upgrade to lithium batteries — the fridge is a constant 12V load that doesn’t care if you’re at a campground or off-grid.

Tip for boondocking: Set the fridge to a colder setting before you leave home so it’s fully cold when you hit the road. Once you’re off-grid, raise the setting slightly to reduce cycle time. The fridge will still keep food safe but won’t run as frequently. Also, avoid putting warm food directly into the fridge — let it cool on the counter first.

Related questions

Can the Winnebago Solis go off-road?

No. The Solis is built on the front-wheel-drive Ram ProMaster chassis, which has about 6-7 inches of ground clearance. It’s fine on graded gravel roads and improved forest service roads, but it will bottom out on deep ruts, sand, or rocky trails. If you need true off-road capability, look at the Winnebago Revel (built on the 4×4 Mercedes Sprinter chassis) or a four-wheel-drive conversion from a specialty shop. The Solis is a road-trip van, not an overlanding rig. Owners who push it onto rough two-tracks often end up with damaged underbody components and bent exhaust hangers.

How much does a Winnebago Solis cost new?

New pricing varies by year and dealer, but as of 2024, a new Solis 59P typically ranges from $110,000 to $135,000 depending on options (lithium battery package, solar upgrades, awning, roof rack). The 59PX pop-top version usually runs $5,000-$8,000 more. Used Solis units from 2020-2022 generally sell between $75,000 and $100,000 depending on condition and mileage. These prices change with market conditions, so check current listings for your region.

Can you tow a car behind a Solis?

The Solis has a tow rating of 3,500 lbs with a hitch receiver rated for 350 lbs tongue weight. That’s enough to tow a small car (like a Mini Cooper or Fiat 500) or a lightweight trailer. Keep in mind that towing reduces fuel economy (expect 10-12 mpg instead of 14-16 mpg solo) and adds strain to the ProMaster’s front-wheel-drive system. If you plan to tow regularly, confirm your specific model year’s tow rating in the owner’s manual and factor in the weight of your gear and passengers against the GVWR.

The Winnebago Solis is a well-designed Class B+ van that trades some traditional RV amenities for a compact footprint and reasonable drivability. It works best for couples or small families who prioritize parking ease and maneuverability over interior space, and who are comfortable with the cassette toilet and the nightly bed conversion. The two floor plans serve different camping styles, and the electrical system demands thoughtful upgrades for anyone planning extended off-grid use. Match the van to your actual camping habits, and the Solis becomes a versatile travel companion rather than a compromise.